Vauxhall astra cut out wont start

I have a vauxhall astra h 1. Tried to jump the battery and it would turn over but not start after trying multiple times.

Charged the battery overnight and placed it back in car and was turning over but not starting and after trying to start up a couple of times battery died again and synapse v3rm clicking sound.

Headlights are still working and bright also windscreen wipers working. What could be the cause? Do you. You need to check the fuel pressure and check to see if it is getting a spark from the ignition coils.

The easiest thing to do is to remove the air snorkel from the intake manifold and spray some car cleaner into the throttle throttle open.

Replace the air snorkel and try to start the engine. If it now starts, or attempts to, the problem is fuel related. Check fuel pressure. You'll need a fuel pressure gauge to check the fuel pressure sometimes you can rent them from a local auto parts store. You can get fuel pressure specifications from a repair manual at the auto parts store, or online. To check for a spark: If you engine has the coil-on-plug ignition system, remove an ignition coil.

With is still connected to its electrical harness insert a spark plug into its boot. Be sure that the spark plug is touching a metal part of the engine.

Have an assistance to spin the engine over while you observe the spark plug to see if there is a spark. If so, the problem is not with the ignition system. If not, let me know and I'll assist further. Was this answer.Original Poster. Search My Stuff What's New 3 12 24 Prev of 2 2 Next.

Radge10 Original Poster 3 posts 99 months.

car cuts out whilst driving then wont restart

For the past 6 months which covers all weather conditions the car has been failing to start on average once every fortnight I use the car very regularly. They advised to replace the coil pack and plugs, which I instructed them to do, but this did not solve the problem either.

The problem at first seemed intermittent but, by keeping a diary, I have actually managed to pin down the exact circumstances that lead to this fault. Indeed I can actually re-create the problem at will now. The remedy is either to leave the car for an hour and it will start normally just ask the AA! Note that the car will still fail to start whether it is parked facing up or down the fairly steep incline that my street is on. It has also failed in similar circumstances where it has been parked on a flat road.

Also note that the problem can be replicated with varying levels of fuel in the tank nearly empty to completely full The key to this is that, at the final stage of this sequence of events, if I leave the car idle for this crucial 45 mins — 1 hour period no more no less then it fails to start. If I try to start it either straight after the journey or after an hour of being idle then the problem does not occur.

One other suggestion from Vauxhall was that the key I use may be failing to send the correct signals to the engine. This has been a costly affair my usual garage knew about it failing only after long journeys but still insisted I needed a new battery for example! Any help from you guys greatly received and if it is any help I have video and sound recordings of the problem as it occurs.

What year is the car? The Astra's have been known to have earthing problems there. Take out the purple?!

Astra H 1.8VVT (z18xer) - Engine Cranks but wont start

Then check that they click when the ignition is turned to position 2. Failing that, check that you have regular fuel pressure at the rail. There's a bleed valve that looks like a tyre valve, just press it and see if there's fuel squirting out.

Some of the 2 litre's suffered from fuel lift pump problems but generally they go wrong and stay wrong. Who did it and when was the last service? Was the fuel filter changed? You'll need a special tool to take it off but check to see if it looks new. What happens a lot of times is they get blocked, or sometimes incorrectly fitted and cause a dam so the fuel struggles to feed to the engine on ignition.

You should, by rights, hear the pump whir from under the rear seats when you turn the key on and if you can't hear it don't jump to the conclusion that it's not working. It could be that it's finding pressure because of a blocked filter and shutting off early. But again, the sensor would fail totally when hot and would cause the car to cut out while driving by rule of thumb.

Hope it helps. When you say the engine doesn't quite start, does it splutter, or cough occasionally, but not quite catch, or does it fire up but die instantly? Or just turn over? Possibly sounds like a temperature sensor Edited by maniac on Wednesday 18th January Nick1point9 3, posts months. Pumaracing 2, posts months. The problem is clearly only occuring at a very specific engine temperature somewhere between cold and fully hot.Log in or Sign up. DIYnot Forums. Vauxhall 1. My Vauxhall Combo van is on loan to some friends but they have been having problems with it.

Fist it stopped charging the battery, now it won't start. Today I went to where it broke down to try and fix it. I have tried the following: 1 Check for 12 volts at the glow plugs 2 Check resistance of all 4 glow plugs 3 Crack open an injector pipe and check for fuel flow when turning starter 4 Partially drain fuel filter in case there is water inside 5 Disconnect air hose and check for intake suction.

I suppose the next check might be compression. I have a tester but I'm not sure if it is suitable for diesels.

Vauxhall astra intermitent none start and eml on

It was raining most of the day so I could only work on it between showers. Any thoughts? I'm hoping we can tow it to my place for more thorough diagnostics. Sure, I think the immobiliser has cut in - maybe because of the non charging battery?

Burnerman2 Nov If a diesel engine is getting fuel and air, what difference can the key make? If it is an immobiliser shutting off the fuel, surely it would show up on my check 3?

vauxhall astra cut out wont start

Actually there does seem to be a problem with the key, as it is tricky to turn in the door locks and the ignition. It is as though someone had lost the key and obtained a slightly different one which just about works.

It was like that for about a year though. I have only ever had one key. We can't argue with that logic, but the fuel would be squirting out at one hell of a pressure during your test! Did it do so? I don't know this engine Petrol instead of Diesel in the tank? Camshaft turning? Camshaft sensor? Mursal2 Nov Piezo injection, I reckon Burnerman3 Nov Mursal3 Nov I might just get it towed to my place then break it for spares.

I want to sell the van but it is virtually worthless here as it is a UK right hand drive vehicle. Even a new key would probably cost more than I'm willing to spend on it. I did try the same experiment on my LDV Convoy 2. Belle3 Nov As for starting, does it turn over?Help Remember Me? Forum Astra Astra Astra H 1. Results 1 to 3 of 3. Thread: Astra H 1. Astra H 1. Then it would randomly cut out during journeys, sometimes after 40mins, sometimes after 10mins. It then runs fine until the next time, No warning lights on the dashboard.

I had the recovery service out to me on 2 occasions, and both times my engine started up fine first time, and when they plugged in their ODB scanners, they found no faults.

The first guy said its probably an immobiliser on the fuel pump, the other guy said it was my EGR valve and proceeded to take off the vacuum pump hose and plug it with a screw, saying that should do the trick for now. So I started browsing the forums and looked into error codes and eventually did the pedal test, These are the ECN codes that I found; U I realise you only need be concerned with the first 4 digits, just wanted to show you that I had 2 ECU malfunction codes.

vauxhall astra cut out wont start

I was told that they were unable to fully test due to my ECU having software on it which they had not encountered before. Should I have the ECN codes cleared first, and wait till the car cuts out again then do the pedal test? I have also read a lot of views and opinions about cleaning or replacing the EGR valve? Thanks in advance. If you don't want to see these adverts after the first post? Click to register now for free! Advertising Diagnostics.

Originally Posted by jaygo. Richard Peck www. Thanks Richard, should be getting the codes cleared at the weekend. Will update the thread as and when i know more. Bookmarks Bookmarks Digg del. About us This site was created by Pecky to act as a knowledge base of useful information regarding Vauxhall cars.

Whilst I can help out with works, this isn't my full time job, so occasionally there may be a delay in replying. The time now is AM. All rights reserved.Original Poster. Search My Stuff What's New 3 12 24 Vauxhall astra intermitent none start and eml on. Mickykp Original Poster 6 posts 79 months. Hi Plese can somebody help shed some light on this problem. I am a small car dealer and i currently have 2 vauxhall astras back in with warranty issues that have the same problem.

Both cars have an intermitent starting issue sometimes starting fine, sometimes turning the key with no turnover at all and sometimes the cars will turn over a few times then just die. Both cars have the eml on displaying the same codes of engine missfire and multiple missfire. I have changed the coil pack and plugs on one and this hasnt fixed the problem so i dont want to try this with the second and waste money.

I assume this is a common problem as i have 2 with the same fault although i have been selling astras for a few years and never encounterd this problem before. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Sorry pretty new to this forum stuff. Both cars are currently with my local garage who do all of my work and diagnostics. When the cars are started the eml is on permanantly and no other lights come on or flash. Unfortunatley im unsure of the fault codes but i do know from what the mechanic tells me that there are 3 codes all relating to missfire which is why they first suggested coil pack and plugs. Both cars drive absoloulty fine once started.

The mechanic is suggesting that it may be a fault with the ecu but this is a very expensive option and do not want to spend that sort of money to find out that it dosent fix the problem. My main objective here is to get these cars fixed and back to the customers asap but as my mechanic cannot guarantee that an ecu will fix the problem i thaught id post on here and hopefully find somebody that has encountered the same problem and been able to fix it.

One of these astras is a 55 1. Sometimes nothing happens when trying to start them, sometimes they turn over a few times and go dead and sometimes they start fine. IMO, you need to find another mechanic. For someone to so readily suggest an ecu fault, usually means they are clueless about how they work and how to diagnose faults. Yes they can go faulty, but it is very rare.By using our site, you acknowledge that you have read and understand our Cookie PolicyPrivacy Policyand our Terms of Service.

It only takes a minute to sign up. Hi i bought an 06 astra in october and since then its had 4 batteries and a new alternator but it still dies over night. I was told potentially the radio was draining it and that was a knows fault.

vauxhall astra cut out wont start

I had the radio unplugged and the car ran fine for 2 weeks but has died again. What else could it be anyone know? Im thinking starter motor. When its died it unlocks with key remote and the clock still works but when i try to start it it just ticks over but is fine again after a jumpstart. Ive soent a fortune on it so thought id ask here. I would try using a multimeter that can measure DC current to see which circuits are drawing power with the ignition off. The radio should draw some, and the alarm if your car has one and whatever circuit handles the remote door locks, but other than that there shouldn't be anything drawing any power.

Make sure there aren't any lights or anything that aren't shutting off, possibly a boot or bonnet light switch has failed and those lights are always on. If you strongly suspect the starter, you should be able to pull the fuse for it before you go inside for the night. If the car starts in the morning after you replace the fuse, of course!

I'd avoid disconnecting parts or pulling fuses until you can identify the source of the draw. There are too many computers and circuits that stay active when you turn off the ignition. If you have a multimeter voltage drop test the fuses by placing the leads across the exposed terminals of the fuse. A link to a millivolt to milliamp chart. Generally when doing a voltage drop test you'll want to have the doors open so you can access the interior fuse boxes.

Depending on what type of door switch you have you can either flip the door latch to the closed position or if you have the plunger style switch gain access to the connector and jump the two pins. You also want to wait for at least an hour to make sure computers are asleep and any circuits have shutdown before doing any parasitic drain voltage drop testing. Sign up to join this community.

The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered. Asked 3 years, 9 months ago. Active 3 years, 9 months ago. Viewed 2k times. Ashley Ashley 41 2 2 bronze badges. Was the current alternator tested? Active Oldest Votes. Have the charging system load tested and make sure the battery is fully charged A link to a millivolt to milliamp chart Generally when doing a voltage drop test you'll want to have the doors open so you can access the interior fuse boxes.

Ben Ben I can believe it could be the battery as I only drive short journeys as im in Portsmouth which is a relatively small island. Best option is to remove battery and charge it off car,How old is the battery? If it is,then replace it.

I dont know how old it is, Ive had the car for 2. Is there a way to determine if the battery is original or not? It sounds like your typical drive cycle is designed as a battery killer, so that's probably what it is.

Do you think I would be able to start it by jumping it then? I've try jumping the starter motor and it kicks over and with Turning the key it does start. But measuring the oc voltage really doesn't tell you anything about the battery's health other than it's state of charge. The battery has a little light on it which has a legend that says green is good orange is bad and no light is dead. At the moment it's green. That's not a reliable guide. Take the car to a good auto electrician - they can carry out a "drop test" on the battery, usually free, which will tell you it's condition - they can also analyse the alternator performance when the engine is running and should be charging.

A 12v battery has 6 cells each of 2 volts. The green light gauge only functions on one cell and, in your case, it sounds like one of the other cells has shorted and the battery will not continue to operate as it should. You have to face up to getting a new battery if you want your engine to start when you need it to!

THanks for all the advice so far guys. I can start the car if I bypass the solenoid on the starter. So at least I can get it where I need to. I just hope it is the battery as I really cannot afford a guess at the moment. Should I try charging it first and getting the voltage right or just replace? Ive got it booked into a garage for the morning, hopefully its just the battery I read this on another forum and I am hoping this is the case lol. Computer - needs correct voltage and doesn't draw much current.

With a modern car and a weak battery you can get into a situation where the "voltage drop" during high drain cranking causes voltage to drop below a minimum acceptable level. Below this minimum acceptable level the computers can refuse to operate and throw up any number of error messages, even though the engine cranks and starts!!

Car electrics are a mysterious thing. I will have a look tonight, Ive put it in the garage for today just so I can get a clear answer if that is at all possible!!

His first impression was that it could be the immobiliser cutting the power to the starter motor, but he will hook it up to diagnose it, he is a decent guy ive heard and I only went to him on his reputation which is good I hear.

Once I have it back, if there is no end in sight! I will try your suggestion, its so weird though as when bypassing everything and starting the starter motor via direct feed to the battery, it starts and drives like a brand new car.